Colombo is Sri Lanka's largest city and its commercial capital, on the west coast about 35 km south of Bandaranaike International Airport. Parliament sits next door in Sri Jayawardenepura Kotte, but Colombo is where the business, the embassies and most of the action are. One full day covers the main sights, so most travellers spend one or two nights here at the start or end of their trip.

Start early in Pettah, the old bazaar district, before the heat and the crowds build. Enter by the Khan Clock Tower and wander streets of spices, gold, fabric and phones until you reach the red and white Jami Ul-Alfar Mosque, finished in 1909. Spend the hottest hours inside the National Museum, which holds the throne and crown of the last king of Kandy. In the afternoon visit Gangaramaya Temple and Geoffrey Bawa's Seema Malaka pavilion on Beira Lake, then go up the Lotus Tower before sunset or eat isso vadai (prawn fritters) on Galle Face Green as the sun drops into the Indian Ocean.

From the airport, a taxi or ride-hailing car takes 30 to 45 minutes on the expressway. Colombo Fort station is the starting point for trains to Kandy and Ella and down the coast to Galle. Around town, book tuk-tuks through PickMe or Uber so the fare is fixed, or agree the price before you get in.

It's hot all year, with daytime highs around 31°C. February is usually the driest month and October the wettest, and most of the rain falls from April to June and from September to November, often as heavy afternoon showers.

Cover your shoulders and knees at temples and the mosque, and leave your shoes at the entrance. Bring your passport if you want a Lotus Tower ticket. Carry rupees for tuk-tuks, markets and street food, as many small sellers don't take cards. On Poya (full moon) days alcohol isn't sold and temples get very busy.